Feb 02 2008
Essential Kitchen Cutlery Part 3
Fireproof earthenware
Elizabeth David gives the following advice for French fireproof earthenwaredesigned for use over direct heat, such as pot-au-feu, marmites and poelons. It is advice worth following for all ceramic cooking pots if they are designed to be used on the stove. Always heat slowly. Keep heat very low and steady throughout cooking. Earthenware retains heat well so even if initial cooking is over direct heat, a mat should be used to check and reduce heat once simmering point has been reached. Don’t add cold liquid to a casserole containing hot fat or food. Hot casseroles should be left to cool before they are washed.
For safety, the cooking ring should not be smaller than the base of the pot. Oval baking dishes, for example, are safe under the grill and in the oven, but smaller sizes only should be used on top of the stove. Large oval earthenware terrines or casseroles should be used only in the oven. For safety and to reduce and regulate heat, casseroles should be used with a heat diffuser mat.
Sometimes the glaze inside earthenware cooking pots looks crazed as soon as liquid is poured in. This does not mean the glaze is faulty.
Stoneware
Stoneware is a hard tough vitreous body which is ovenproof and occasionally flameproof. It is non-porous and will not stain if you chip the glaze. It can be used for storage containers. If manufacturers say a stoneware cooking pot can be used on top of the stove, it is wise to follow the advice laid down for French fireproof earthenware.
Patent ceramics
These are comparatively new, usually marketed under brand names—”Pyrosil” is well known in this country. They are ovenproof, flameproof and will withstand extremes of temperature far better than other ceramic pots, but even here it is safer to underestimate their strength.
Aluminium
Aluminium pans are light, easy to clean, don’t tarnish and don’t rust. Just remember three things. (1) Don’t use washing soda for cleaning. It has a harmful chemical action on aluminium. (2) Don’t store liquids and food in aluminium pans. Water, as well as somefoods, can cause pitting. It doesn’t affect the efficiency of the pan, only its looks. (3) Don’t use metal spoons and sharp implements for stirring. They will scratch and cause pitting.
Cleaning : Wash in hot soapy water, rinse and dry before using for the first time. After that, wash in liquid detergent, using a saucepan brush, nylon scourer or fine steel wool but not copper scouring pads or harsh scouring powder. Rinse thoroughly and dry. If the inside discolours, don’t worry ; it won’t affect food or flavour. You can remove the discoloration by boiling up some water with apple peeling or a lemon when you’ve used the juice.
Frying pans : Should be heated gently with plenty of fat. Never plunge a frying-pan into washing-up bowl after use; it will buckle. Allow to cool first.
New aluminium kettles : Make curiously coloured tea. If you bring the kettle to the boil repeatedly, emptying and using fresh tap water each time, it will rapidly form a protective coating on the inside and the tea will improve.
Stainless steel
As stainless steel is a poor conductor of heat, stainless steel pans have to have an applied, or sandwich, base of copper or aluminium before they can be used on top of the stove.
Although stainless steel has a tendency to develop blue heat marks, the material retains its good appearance easily with a minimum of labour. Simply wash in hot soapy water and dry to avoid water marks.
There are special polishes for stainless steel : don’t use silver dips.
Scratching shows less on satin finishes than mirror finishes.
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