Apr 07 2008

Kitchen zones in practice

These examples will show you some different ways in which efficient planning of kitchen zones can be put into practice.

This L-shaped kitchen (left) illustrates the way the work triangle of sink/cooker/refrigerator has been adapted to the needs of the family as well asthe constraints of the room itself. The workflow sequence is not perfect, but it does make sense. Perfection would have demanded costly major structural work not essential to safety and efficiency.

The U-shaped kitchen/living room (below) illustrates the way in which the utility, eating and working kitchen areas have been created. Within the working kitchen are the six zones: food storage, preparation, cooking, serving, dishwashing, crockery storage. In this case, as the fridge is close to both the working kitchen and the eating area, the food store is not in the ideal position. However, the needs of the whole family have to be balanced against the needs of the cook, and this is an acceptable compromise.

Kitchen EssentialThe third example (below right) also demonstrates the way in which the three main areas are constructed. The utility area comprises the boiler and washing machine with brooms placed in an alcove. A breakfast bar running along the back of the peninsular unit creates an eating area. The work triangle is clearly defined.

Safety

It’s generally acknowledged that the kitchen is the most hazardous place in the house, so achieving a safe kitchen is of paramount importance. Major hazards include the positioning of cookers opposite sinks or next to doors; wall cupboards hung too low; slippery or uneven floors; protruding handles and poor lighting. Potentially dangerous substances such as bleach, must be stored at a high level or locked away.

Here are a range of hazards, their effects and the suggested solutions.

Incorrect electrical wiring orinsufficient sockets

This can lead to overloading of the electrical circuit and possibly even a fire. Multi-plug adaptors can easily loosen in their sockets leading to overheating and burning in the flexes.

In any working kitchen we recommend the installation of two separate circuits. These should be put in by a National Inspection Council approved contractor (NICIEC — see glossary) and approved by the Electricity Board. One circuit should be a 30—amp ring circuit with outlets for fixed appliances, such as dishwashers, and sufficient sockets for each small appliance such as a percolator or toaster with at least two spare for more rarely-used items. The second circuit should be a 45—amp or 60—amp circuit for the cooker if electricity is used for cooking.

Sockets or switches within reach of water

Shocks or electrocution could result if the wiring is faulty. Sockets and switches should always be well out of the range of accidental splashing and should never be touched with wet hands.

Poor lighting

Eye strain is an obvious result of poor lighting, but less apparent is the hazard of poor hygiene in areas. All light fittings should be earthed and professional advice sought about this. Overall lighting should be supplemented by striplights fixed under wall cupboards to illuminate work surfaces and cooking areas.

Water pipe unearthed

If the water pipes are not earthed, leakages could cause shocks when sinks, taps or faulty metallic appliances are touched. All water pipes should be cross bonded using safety earth clamps and earth wires. Seek professional advice either from your local Electricity Board or an NICEIC contractor.

Bad positioning of cooker

A cooker or hotplate by a door, at the end or a run of units, or on a narrow peninsular or island unit is a potential hazard. In these positions, the hotplates or burners and the pan handles are too exposed and unprotected by worktops. Traffic of people in and out of the kitchen could lead to accidents.

The cooker should be adjacent or at right angles to the sink, with a worktop each side of the hob linking it to the sink for easy access.

Sink and cooker on opposite walls

There is a danger of spilling boiling liquids when removing pans off the hob to drain. The sink and hob should be positioned within two metres of each other and linked with a worktop.

Wall units or cooker hood placed too low over cooker and base units

Heat generated by the cooker can distort wall cupboards hung too low. If a pan catches fire, flames will spread more easily to low-hung cupboards. Nasty knocks to forehead or eyes could result when leaning forward. The minimum recommended wall space between the bottom of wall units and the cooker hob is 750 mm. To be safer, fix them at least 900 mm above the work surface.

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5 Responses to “Kitchen zones in practice”

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