Kitchen Essential

Woodcock are something of a delicacy at any time. They are not normally obtainable in any significant numbers and, roasted on toast in the traditional manner, are appreciated by sportsmen gourmets.

However, I can thoroughly recommend smoked woodcock, and one or two can easily be smoked alongside other species, such as pheasants or quail. When in good condition the woodcock is a fat, moist bird and will retain a good proportion of moisture during smoking.

Smoking

The woodcock should be gutted, as any other bird (the innards are normally left in during other culinary processes). They should be soaked in 80% brine for 1 hour, then allowed to dry on a rack for 3 hours. They are cold smoked at 70 - 80° F for 12 - 18 hours, then hot smoked for 2 hours at 200°F. Alternatively, being small, tender birds, they can be finished off in an Abu smoke box after cold smoking; the time required for a burner of meths to burn out is sufficient to complete the process.

Smoked turkey

Smoked turkey is rather better known, even to the conventional British, than many of the products I have described. Being large birds. with thick layers of muscle, they do not absorb smoke too readily, but on the other hand are not inclined to go dry during smoking. I have never attempted a very large bird, and I would say turkeys from 6 to 10 lb dressed weight are ideal. A bird of this size should be deeply pricked with a fork in all fleshy areas to assist brine penetration, then should be soaked in 80% brine for 4 - 5 hours, depending on size. The bird should be weighted down to ensure that it is covered in brine at all times, and a convenient method is to place a fairly large stone within the body cavity of the bird. After brining, the turkey should be strung across the wings for hanging and should be allowed to drain for 24 hours. Before being placed in the kiln for cold smoking, make sure that the bird is well opened at the neck end, so that the smoke can pass freely through the interior of the bird.

Smoking

In order to impart a good smoky flavour to the bird, it is advisable to give it quite an appreciable period in cold smoke, say 4 - 7 days at a smoke temperature of 60 - 80° F. After cold smoking, it should be hot smoked for a period for 4 - 6 hours, depending on the size and age of the bird, at a temperature of 200 - 220^° F. I mention age specifically, as turkey hens which have laid for a season can be a very good buy. They are much cheaper than the young roasting birds and are quite suitable for smoking provided one gives them an extra couple of hours or so in the hot smoker.

Smoked chicken

Much of what I have written about turkeys applies to smoked chicken. Although I have never tried one, I dare say an old boiling fowl could be considerably enhanced by smoking, bearing in mind that it will require a longer hot smoking period than a young roasting chicken. A 4-lb (dressed weight) chicken should be pricked in the same manner as a turkey and should be soaked in 80% brine for 2¹/2 - 3 hours.

Smoking

Chickens should be allowed to drain for 24 hours before cold smoking, and should be left in the kiln from 48 hours to 4 days at 60 - 80° F. A point to be considered in relation to both turkeys and chickens is that, unlike ducks, they will not go rancid during an extended cold smoking period, so this can be somewhat elastic. They will require about 2 hours‘ hot smoking at 220 - 240^° F to complete the process.

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