Jun 10 2008

My Best Smoke with perfect Pre-salting part 2

Published by dodo at 4:51 am under Container

Strong and weak brines

My own preference is for a fairly strong brine (80 - 90%) in which the fish, fowl or flesh is left for a matter of hours rather than days, but there is an alternative method, involving the use of weaker brines, plus sugar and in some cases other ingredients. The material is left in these weaker brines often for a period of several days, and though it is not usual to brine fish in this manner, the method has a definite place in the curing of certain meats and fowl which, owing to their age or species, are likely to be very tough.

Salt has a hardening effect upon the muscular tissue of mammalian and avian flesh, but sugar tenderizes, so a tough bird such an aged goose, pheasant or turkey could benefit from treatment in sugar-added brine. However, where the method really comes into its own is when you have to deal with a piece of less than prime quality beef or a joint of elderly bear, elk or wild boar. The British home smoker is hardly likely to be faced with any of these last three commodities. Even if you have friends in the USA or Scandinavia who might conceivably send you some of these meats, the Ministry of Agriculture would hardly be kindly disposed to their importation. Nevertheless the method could prove very useful in brining of venison from an old stag, and it is also customary to use this so-called ’sweet pickle‘ brining method when curing bacon or ham, either smoked or unsmoked. When strong brines are employed for a few hours, the temperature of the brine is of little consequence as the food does not remain in the pickle for any length of time, but when using the longer ’sweet pickle‘ brining process certain procedures must be observed. When a lengthy brining process is involved, the pickle should first be chilled to about 35° F before the meat is immersed. Throughout the entire length of the cure, the liquid must be maintained at this temperature by refrigeration to prevent spoilage. However, if you notice that the brine is beginning to smell sour, pour it away at once and wash the meat in a weak vinegar solution. The vessel should be washed out and scalded and a fresh batch of pickle made.

Kitchen EssentialWhether you use the short, strong brining process or the longer one involving sweet pickle, the contents of the brining vessel should be agitated from time to time. Brine weakens towards the surface, so the agitation will ensure that the brine remains at a more consistent strength; when brining in sweet pickle for several days, it is a good idea to turn the meat, or birds over daily.

Sweet pickle

81/2 gallons water

5 lbs vacuum-dried salt 1 lb white sugar

1 oz saltpetre

4 oz pickling spice

Brine for octopus or squid

61/2 gallons water

101/2 oz salt

2 lb brown sugar

62 fl. oz soy sauce

3 cups lemon juice

4 tablespoons garlic juice

4 tablespoons onion juice

6 tablespoons ground ginger

Vacuum-dried salt can be purchased from most agricultural merchants, and if you scan the yellow pages of your telephone directory an entry under ‘salt merchants’ will usually be discovered. Salt attracts atmospheric moisture, so it is worth paying a few more pence for salt packed in a stout plastic sack than a paper one. It is best stored in a closed container such as a plastic domestic dustbin with a well-fitting lid. If salt does become damp and lumpy it will still be fit to use, but bulk for bulk will weigh a little heavier than dry salt owing to the moisture it has absorbed; if using damp salt, 2 - 3 oz more per gallon of water should be used than recommended.

The brining pump

Brine has a very penetrative effect upon the tissues of fish and flesh. The salt content of the brine blends with the fluid content of the meat or fish and works its way through the tissues towards the interior. However, when very thick pieces of meat or very large birds are being processed, there may be such a depth of flesh that it is difficult for the brine to penetrate right to the interior. An aid to effective penetration is the brine pump, which works on exactly the same principle as the hypodermic syringe, except that the brine is forced out of holes in the side of the needle instead of the tip.

The greatest advantage of the brining pump is that it can be plunged in close to the bone of hams and large haunches of venison, as it is around the bones where a type of deterioration called ‘bone tainting’ can arise.

If the pump has been out of action for some time, the plunger should be soaked in water for 3 hours to soften and expand it. Before filling, the needle should be sterilized by holding it under boiling water for 20 seconds. The needle should be dipped into the brine until its entire length is covered, then the plunger should be fully withdrawn and the cylinder of the syringe is filled. The needle should be driven into the flesh at an angle, right to the bone, but the full charge of brine should not be deposited at this point. As the plunger is depressed, the needle should be slowly drawn out and will distribute brine around its path to the surface. When the needle is withdrawn, the tissues around the exit hole should be firmly pressed with the fingers to prevent the brine leaking out.

It is most important that the pump should be kept scrupulously clean, otherwise bacteria as well as brine may be injected into the meat. About 1 fl. oz per 1 lb of meat should be injected. The meat should then be immersed in brine for the usual period, to ensure maximum distribution of brine throughout the tissues. The brine pump should be used as a piece of auxiliary equipment, not as an end in itself. After use, the pump should be dismantled, then thoroughly washed and dried before it is put away.

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