Jun 24 2008

Take Caring all of my cutlery

Published by dodo at 9:26 pm under Cabinet, China, Dish Washer, Glass, Table Ware

The best method of caring for all cutlery, whatever it is made from, is to wash and dry immediately after use. In this way all food residues are removed before staining can occur. No cutlery is totally stain-resistant, so do not leave it unwashed, wet or `in soak’ overnight — even in a dish washer. First rinse under cold running water to remove any traces of salt; salt plus hot water can cause staining and pitting. Next wash in clean, warm, soapy water, rinse and dry thoroughly. Use soft dish pads or cloths and tea towels, and never add bleach to the water. Handle each piece separately; cutlery cluttered in a bowl may get scratched. When drying, knife blades (nowadays usually made from stainless steel) should not be wiped with an up-and-down movement, but in one direction only from neck to point until all the moisture is removed. This method is best for spoons and forks too.

Stainless steel cutlery

While stainless steel requires very little special attention, the above routine should still be followed. Any stains that do occur are usually due to an accidental application of silver cleaning material or to prolonged contact with acids and minerals — salt, vinegar or even those naturally present in tap water. Steel wool fragments can cause rust marks if carelessly left in contact as can corrosion pitting, although this is only likely to occur in cheap imported pieces. Very hard water can deposit a chalky film and very hot fat or meat juices (and of course direct heat if cutlery is left on a hot plate) can cause stubborn rainbow stains. Most stains that resist ordinary rubbing with a soapy cloth can be corrected with Goddard’s stainless steel care.

Kitchen Essential

Horn and wood handles

Cutlery with handles of horn or natural polished wood should not be machine washed, nor even placed bodily into water. Simply hold each piece by the handle and wash only the metal parts. As the handles may become damp, dry each thoroughly as soon as possible. Plastic- finished woods do not need polish, but if plunged in water frequently they become grey and dull.

China and stoneware

These handles should be washed as china. Certain types of plastic handles which look like China should not be subjected to the heat of dish washers so note manufacturer’s instructions.

Silver and silver plate

including EPNS (electroplated nickel silver) should be washed and dried as above and never in a dish washer. Silver is a comparatively soft metal and no matter what care is taken it is inevitable that small scratches will appear on the polished surface. This results in a less brilliant, but no less attractive appearance. Tarnishing is easily removed by a good silver polish. `Long term’ polishes are probably the best as they do provide a high degree of protection against subsequent tarnishing. A silver dip is useful for keeping fork prongs and teaspoons immaculate. Silver cleaners should never be brought into contact with stainless steel knife blades because it can damage them.

Pewter

Thisis a real easy-care metal, but if tarnished through non-use, the lustre can be restored with silver polish. Otherwise, treat as stainless steel.

Bronze and vermeil

Wash these, and gilded stainless steel cutlery, as silver. They should not tarnish.

Storing cutlery

The ideal way to store cutlery is in a canteen. These can be purchased separately from leading stores or can be made by the home handyman. Choose between the open box or cabinet drawer type, free-standing or on legs. A plain felt lining and a sectioned insert for convenient stacking will keep cutlery well protected and tidy.

Alternatively use a carry box divided into sections and similarly lined. A piece of loose felt laid over the cutlery will keep dust and damp away. Felts should be softly brushed to keep them clean.

GLASSWARE

Fine glass, particularly valuable crystal, should be washed by hand and not in a dish washer. Use a plastic bowl or a rubber mat in the sink and warm, not hot, soapy water with a soft cloth or sponge. Pressed or engraved patterns can be cleaned with a soft brush. Glasses used for milk or alcoholic beverages should be pre-rinsed in cold water. Wash one glass at a time to prevent chipping and rinse in plain warm water. Some people like to add a splash of vinegar to the rinsing water to remove all soap or detergent traces. Drain on a rubber mat or plastic-coated drainer or on a folded towel. When clearing up after a party, take a tip from the publicans and cover trays with cloths or kitchen paper, leaving glasses to drain.

Stain removal

Obstinate marks on glass are dissolved by soaking the glass for twenty-four hours in a strong solution of household detergent and water or rubbing very carefully with a cleaning powder. For lime deposits use tea leaves soaked in vinegar. If the problem is excessive caking on the inside of a bottle or decanter the addition of a little silver sand will be helpful. Swirl round vigorously before pouring it out.

Stuck glasses and stoppers

When glasses stick together do not attempt to pry them apart. Pour cold water on the inner glass and hold the outer one in warm-water. Stoppers which stick can eventually be removed from decanters by rubbing a little cooking oil around the joint and leaving in a warm place. But a certain amount of patience may be needed.

Storage

Glasses not in regular use can be packed away safely in cardboard boxes. Wrap glasses individually in tissue paper or newspaper and lay side by side in alternate rows, rims to bases, with layers separated by several sheets of paper. Alternatively use strong scissors and make proper cardboard box dividers or save the ones used in cases of wine for this purpose. They fold flat when not required. Glasses that have been stored should always be washed before use. At first glance they may look clean, but are probably dusty or at best, less than sparkling.

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