Kitchen Essential

When you have spent both time and money choosing tableware that is suited to your lifestyle, it is important that you know how to keep these things looking as good as new. This is full of useful tips for cleaning, storing and removing stains from all your tableware.

TABLE SURFACES AND CHAIRS

Wood

With the exception of whitewood, all wooden furniture has been given a final surface treatment by the manufacturer. That is why it is important to know what the material is when you buy and, if possible, obtain advice on how to care for it. If the original finish is to keep its looks, it needs a certain amount of regular attention.

Day-by-day care should be kept to dusting; cleaning and/or polishing should be done weekly. This gives a better effect than daily polishing. Some surfaces do not need polishing. It is important to remove dirt thoroughly (see below) to prevent a layer of dirt, mixed with polish, from building up. Always use heat-proof mats to prevent the surface from being marked.

Wax polish

Furniture that has been wax- polished really does need elbow grease to bring it up. A good furniture wax can be used occasionally, but sparingly, because the solvent in the polish softens the basic wax leaving a smeary surface. So always use the minimum and buff well. Teak and `oiled’ woods need a few drops of teak oil every three or four months.

French polish

The high gloss of a french polish should last for years if handled carefully. Polish occasionally with a little beeswax-based furniture cream and remove any build-up of wax with a mixture of one part vinegar to eight parts water. Remove sticky marks with a little warm soapy water, dry thoroughly afterwards. Heat marks should disappear if rubbed with linseed oil or olive oi I and cigarette ash or cigar ash (these mild abrasives could be added to the oil without harm). Old or worn french polish is best removed and a new surface applied professionally although DIY kits are available.

Stain removal from wood surfaces

Treat all stains as soon as possible. White heat marks that have not penetrated too deeply should be gently rubbed with a soft cloth dipped in camphorated oil. Treat a small part at a time and wipe away any surplus oil. Wax and polish in the normal way.

Persistent marks can be camouflaged by a special wood dye (following the manufacturer’s instructions); burns that have penetrated the surface may mean stripping and re-polishing. A deep burn that has destroyed the wood can only be masked by staining and polishing.

Hot grease is ideally removed at once with soft paper. If set, lift off with a blunt knife. Use the same method for melted candle wax. Polish well.

There are various methods of removing bad water marks such as glass rings. One method is to soak very fine steel wool in furniture cream and polish hard over the mark. This may be successful, but if not try rubbing with linseed oil or olive oil and a little cigarette or cigar ash, as these are mild abrasives. Afterwards polish the mark very hard with a slightly tinted furniture cream or dye. When the mark has nearly disappeared, wax and polish in the usual way. Ordinary iodine is useful to touch up scratches on dark woods. Make a trial application first on a small area and if the result is too dark dilute it with alcohol. For lighter woods, rub the scratch with a fresh shelled and halved Brazil nut.

Plastic finishes

Modern clear ‘plastic’ finishes protect furniture well against dust, grease and grime. A gloss finish is best maintained with the occasional use of a cleaning and polishing liquid; a matt finish should be wiped lightly with a moist chamois leather. Too much polishing on matt surfaces will destroy the matt effect, causing an ugly ‘bloom’. Once you begin using polish you may find you need to do it regularly.

Laminates

Laminates require nothing beyond a wipe with a damp cloth. If you do use a little household cleaner be sure to rinse all traces away with a clean damp cloth. Drying with a soft cloth prevents smearing.

Eggshell paint

This should be washed over with warm water and a mild detergent. A small amount of white furniture cream used occasionally will improve the surface.

Bamboo

To clean bamboo wipe with a damp cloth and pat dry with a soft absorbent cloth. If badly soiled, add a tablespoon of common salt to every 500 ml (1 pint) of water and apply with a soft brush. Wipe dry with a soft cloth, then rub the surface with a piece of velvet soaked in linseed oil. Leave for an hour or so, then polish with a soft cloth.

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