Kitchen Essential

STEP BY STEP

1. Cut a length of 60 x 60 mm timber to the desired width of the table. This is the block from which the table will be hinged and which will be fastened to the wall. If it is a stud wall use at least two 80 mm coach screws, counterbored 20 mm or so with a spadebit in a drill, secured into separate stud beams. If it is a brick wall use masonry bolts of the same length or greater, also counterbored 20 mm. When using masonry bolts be sure to drill to the exact depth the bolts will be inserted and hammer them in until solid contact is made with the bottom of the hole, or the bolts will not grab properly. You can use various types of hinge but a piano hinge which runs the length of the block is recommended. Other types of hinge require rebates to be made in the mounting block.

2. The leg will be too long to fold between the tabletop and the wall so it is cut and hinged. Where you make the cut is up to you but halfway is recommended. Use 60 x 60 mm timber for the leg and chamfer each corner to about 5 mm. When theleg is supporting the table it is fixed into one rigid length with the aid of a caselock on the side opposite to that with the hinge. A caselock is often used on musical instrument cases and camera cases, available at well- stocked ironmongers. For appearance the caselock and the hinge should preferably be made of the same metal. Rebate for both hinges. Where the top hinge connects with the underside of the tabletop a rebate is not strictly necessary although it would improve the firmness of the joint.

3 All that is now required is to clip the folded leg to the underside of the table for when it is folded down against the wall and not in use. Some kind of ball and spring cupboard door latch can be used although your DIY shop will have a variety to choose from. A locking stay is also required to stop the leg from folding under when the table is in use.

4 Painting should be done very carefully in a dust-free environment with a good quality gloss paint. For toughness, at least three coats with a light sand between each one is required. For extra toughness you can even finish with a couple of coats of lacquer. Remember that time spent sanding all components will be well rewarded with a superior finish.

Applying Laminate to Particle (Chip) Board

Draw the pieces you want on the decorative side of your laminate sheet, allowing sufficient extra on the surface piece for the strips that will be glued to the edges.

Use a square and double check your measurements. If unsure of how much extra to allow for the thickness of the laminate on the edges, first cut off a couple of pieces to experiment. The contact adhesive, if applied correctly, will add about 0.5 mm.

Score along your lines with a laminate cutter, a simple and cheap device with a tungsten carbide tip. Once you have achieved a good clean break through the laminate’s decorative surface, break the sheet along a straightedge, applying downward pressure over the whole length of the cut. It should snap in two along the score line, after which the backing, which may be jagged on the edge, can be sanded smooth. You may even want to try sanding it back at an angle with a sanding block for a mitred join.

Cover both surfaces to be joined with a thin and even coat of thixotropic contact adhesive, making sure to avoid lumps, and wait until the adhesive dries to a tacky, almost dry feeling. Line up the laminate carefully and press it onto the particle (chip) board a bit at a time, making full use of the laminate’s flexibility, and smoothing it firmly with a cloth.

A drawing pin pushed into the edge will assist in positioning the top surface laminate. Once the two glued surfaces come into contact you are fully committed to your positioning because contact adhesive works like its name: full adhesion is achieved with contact.

Add your edge pieces and clean excess adhesive off the laminate with the manufacturer’s recommended solvent as soon as possible.

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